Turkey & Athens - May 27 to June 8th 2015

Part 1  Athens

The trip to Turkey had been finalized when I decided to ‘add on’ Athens…just one and half hours flying time between Istanbul and Athens.

   

All through my school years Greek Mythology had been one of my  favorite readings. I loved the highly individualistic Gods and Goddesses, icons of various attributes, with passions similar to ours but with astounding prowesses. Another push came from ."Birds without Wings” by Louis de Bernieres .  A novel with the bitter struggle between the Greeks and Turks as its background.   There are gory bits, and some wonderfully etched relationships which exist  in spite of  differences in religion.

The sum total of all this was an additional three days to my itinerary and the ticket was extended.  It was a good decision.

Athens is a beautiful city where the ancient and the modern sit very comfortably together.

I could find no signs of the economic crisis that the country is going through.

The sidewalk cafes and their hosts were cheerful…there were plenty of tourists...

..it seemed normal .

In the midst of this normalcy is a phenomena  that is the Acropolis ....

with its temple of Athena Nike on a rocky hill, the Parthenon temple, the Propylaea gateway and my entire reading came alive.

The view is spectacular ; the Mediterranean Sea is visible

and what a setting for a Maria Callas, John Elton performance.  

I liked Athens.  There are big busy streets and small pedestrian friendly ones.  I love to walk and have the world’s worst sense of direction…but was always given directions happily…accurately!

 The Temple of Apollo ...the god of music who had a daily task of driving his chariot to move the sun across the sky is in Delphi.

 Athens to Delphi is an approximate two hour drive on a road without a single bump

 I was given  strange glances both by my guide and the driver of the car when I kept complimenting them on their roads..the very clean toilets..the efficiency at the ticket window..where they never seemed to be out of change.

  I think I was no different to my US buyers who came to India and  wanted me to stop the car every time they saw a cow on the street which they felt  they simply had to take a picture of.

Trying out the opening bars...before my performance.

 

Delphi

Two other memories that will remain are of Arachova , a charming mountain town on the way to Delphi..it is a ski resort..scantily populated at this time of the year because unlike India..everyone goes to the seaside for summer. Its town of carpet weavers, handicrafts..and picturesque  eating places 

AND that of 

The Acropolis Museum …a beautiful, beautiful home for what is not on site. Bernard Tschumi  Architects  have done a great job..the modernity of the structure, fixtures, in no way quarrels with the exhibits..it just makes for very comfortable and enriching viewing.with enough places to rest, audio visuals and a great café.

Actually you need a complete day here. I need to go back!

Feb 6th to 13th Feburary…..Myanmar

Feb 6th to 13^th  Feburary…..Myanmar

My list of places to visit is long. Hovering at the top are Turkey and Greece, followed closely by Australia, Borneo..and I guess on the “To Do List “..there is “watch the US Open”..August I believe.

I cannot pinpoint when Myanmar( Burma)..pronounce ME..AN..MAR and not MY…AN..MAR crept in.

 Actually, for sometime, in the background, there had been a Burma buzz …. Mr. Manmohan Singh went to visit; the US and Europe lifted sanctions and then when two gentleman from the Condo that I live in took up jobs in that country, I found myself reading A History of Burma and  studying quotes from the Theravada form of Buddhism

‘No enemy can harm one so much as one’s own thoughts of craving, hate and jealousy’

Two other powerful influencers were my friend Ms. Tessa Stewart…who sporadically inspires me to step out of my comfort zone..she sent me some wonderful pictures, … and my maid Sujon who pushed off on maternity leave to help her daughter deliver.

The itinerary took shape: Two days each in Yangon , a port on the tributary of the Irrawady river (AKA Rangoon) Bagan..the ancient capital  of the country, and Inle Lake.. and where the oarsmen use a pole and a leg to row.

                   Inle Lake..

                    a city that is on stilts in the water

                     the oarsmen use a pole and a leg to row.

Travel Agents, plan your itinerary around Historical Sites..with ‘cut copy paste ‘ phrases, a Dos and Don’t’s list… names of eating places, bars and I do not know why a visit to the fruit and vegetable market.

 Thrown in also are a factory or two..with local  craftsman at work, a showroom for souvenirs. To this I always add a visit to a garment factory..so that the trip can be labeled STUDY TOUR. The itinerary can in no way give you the flavor of the country..it is something that you sense and feel ; the picture and sound impressions that register.

Several airlines fly from Delhi to Yangon. Thai via Bangkok,  Malaysian via K.L. AND Air India via Kolkotta. I chose Malaysian…they had the best fare, good timing and an adequate transit interval in  K.L… long enough to visit an on the ground washroom ,rest, and check around the duty free. I refused to believe that they were on the “hit list “of some GROUP..my horoscope did not show my end in the air!

Yangon airport is modern and manned by efficient women, with the correct amount of sternness  in their expressions.

Outside .. the arrival Hall was a sea ( India would be a mob) of men with placards. All of them dresses in Lunghis regular shirts and flip flops. I found one ..with KAPUR..which is the correct spelling of my name. Usually I am the impoverished KA  POOR.

The placard was held by my guide, a slim man in his forty’s pleasant looking , with perfect accent less English.

Our Car was not newish..and not oldish..The A/C worked , the seats were well cushioned , the upholstery was not worn or faded and most important the computerized voice alerts “ Slow Down,..Seat Belts please, You are too close to the vehicle ahead..were bang on..except it was all said in Japanese .The car was a reconditioned import from Japan and the alerts I presume could not be redone..which I find strange..because the Japanese are Technical Whizzes and very meticulous. Any how I would not have understood even if the alerts had been in Burmese.

Yangon city..a total contrast to Bagan.. is a city of traffic jams. It has  several lakes 

       It has  several lakes 

         the statue of a 60ft. lying down Buddha

                       beautiful gardens

                    and the famous Shwedagon Monastery.

It is a city on the cusp of consumerism..ready to be overtaken by the Macdonalds and the Reeboks.

The tourist season is from November to early March…and my guide was apologetic about the rush ..but then any one that is from India defines ‘rush’  differently

Inspite of all my reading I was not expecting anything from my visit other than Monastery Marvels

           Monastery Marvels …in stone and  in wood

interesting sculptures and architecture all with their own stories

                   

               interesting sculptures and architecture

               all with their own stories

 The add ons were:

 The smiling gentle people..warm sincere with a quiet diginity. No one puts their hand out. No one followed you trying to sell.

 The Burmese Cat however is not ….gentle… just magnificent

The clear skies …. in Bagan  and Inle Lake.. that provided great  visuals of  the sun rising and setting.

                    Sun set  at Irrawaddy river

In Bagan

Places of Sanctity that insisted on ‘no shoes, no socks, decorum of dress..but  were clean..just a little dust which  you wiped off with a scented paper towel provided by your guide.

                                  Tourists and locals

We ..the tourists.. were the camera toters consulting guide books..out numbering us were the locals..believers..donars.

Hotels and Service : As good ..actually in service better than anywhere in the world.

                               The Hotel in Bagan

                            The bath room at Inle Lake villa

 The Service I feel stems from the nature of the people..a happy people..who want to please…there is a warmth that takes them beyond the trained professional.

                      My guide and I in Yangon

Thank you  Tessa,  Thank you  Sujan,

A Full Circle

I just bought a new car … not a ca..aar, and not one of the three brands...Audi, BMW, Mercedes in the salon category  or a Lexus …A brute ...amongst the S.U.V ‘s. that the "Arrived" residents of my complex own .... 

I brought home a Honda City… it looks right on me… I fit comfortably behind the steering wheel and also in the rear seat. The message conveyed is “MID”.

We are  a presence without a splash.

I chose a  white Honda City…and this brought me back to many many years ago to my first car purchase …also white, a Premier Padmini (Fiat 1100) . That was the era of the Ambassadors and Fiats .The Maruti was just stepping in and on everyones MUST have list….however  like the telephone connection, you either paid a premium to get one or you needed to be high up on the Government  Quota list.

How I loved my Padmini . I covered it every night, personally supervised its washing and cleaning and its first scratch had me inconsolable for a week.

From the white Padmini I graduated to the Maruti family . My Esteems were in a series of metallic colours.  I was faithful, till  I came across a Honda brochure offering red as one of their colors.  I succumbed; bought it and drove it home. 

The Red Saree matched my Red Honda .My back straightened and my chin tilted whenever I stepped out of my car .

I have stayed with the Honda City moving from red to a warm silver to graphite pearl to army olive and now am back  to a WHITE… thereby proving that you end where you start …I  may not be changing this car for another ….but could change to either a horse or a cycle.

The cycle ...my very first. 

My sister had to bribe me with her share of the evenings desert to get included in the photograph.

There Comes A time...

There comes a time when you just need to refuel your body. You need a routine that is different from:

Brisk Walk..45 min.

Hit the Gym : 6.30pm.

30 laps in the pool : 7.am

And then, you destroy a fair amount of  the good with debate, unmet deadlines..winning and losing.
I chose Vana..advertised as a wellness centre as fuel for  "feeling good".

.Vana is in Dehradun. It is a one hour flt from Delhi and then another hour by car on an adequately metalled road bordered by tall tall trees.

You can also take a train..6 hours on the  Shatabdi.. or just drive down from Delhi.

In my decision making process....my first thought was..
eek its expensive.
 Rs. 35000 a day and a mandatory 5 day stay. However once you have bitten that bullet...all else is "on the house"...and  goodness what a ' house.'

I notice detail, and love it when attention is paid to it.

The feel good began for me right from the airport pick -up in a newish Innova all to myself even though there were other passengers for Vana. It continued through because my  driver was not full of 'IS THIS YOUR FIRST TIME.." chatter ; the tying of the rudraksha ,the serving of an apple and cinnamon flavoured.cup of tea during the registration process.

My five days flew,but I have strong memories that can best be shared as

Clean...not just a detergent clean..but a cleanliness associated with freshness that comes from  unpolluted air filtered through  Sal Trees and wafts from spice and herbal tea patches.

The treatment rooms, the pools..they have indoor and outdoor..never made you feel that someone had been there before you..the attendants uniforms were always crisp,fresh and it seemed that YOU were the only one they were there for.

Space.. My room was spacious with a good sized balcony and with separate areas for sleeping, sitting, dressing, showering, tub soaking and answering calls from nature..
If you travel in your sleep as I do...the bed was large enough to ensure that you did not fall of it.

I felt the openness also in the dining, and other public areas.A sitarist played ...he was good, not concert brilliant but a "make you feel good"...good..
 There were people..at the 20 hour chai and coffee bar,the servers in the dinning area,  the gardeners visible through the large glass doors ..there was enough space for all of us and it was my choice whether I wanted them or not!

Food: I loved it..delicious, calorie marked, great variety..portions that helped with calorie control.
Hurrah..I came away 2kg lighter.

Activities.. there was plenty of choice from a Tibetan Healing Centre to ..yoga, massages, hikes and a trip to Haridwar for the evening Arti  all of which I rated  E for excellent.

What Else: No photographs...I did not see any one taking any..I am not sure if it is discouraged.
 Should it be made less expensive so that I could do this 4 times a year.? I do not know..
Selfishly, perhaps I do not want it to be a  Group or a Family Holiday place.

Lima, Cusco, The Urubamba Valley and Ollantaytambo

Any trip I plan, must have either some historical value or nature as the focal point.

I enjoy physical activity and like it all wrapped up in as much luxury as I can afford. Sometimes the “afford” gets stretched but I have never regretted it as the experience always overtakes the cost.

Peru gave me all that I look for ,and  I am glad that I did the trip now..at my current fitness level as it calls for both the ability to acclimatize and stamina.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

It’s a loo…oong flight. 8 hours to Amsterdam;  a 4 hour layover and then twelve and a half hours across  the Atlantic, over  the Andes and onto Lima on the Pacific.

I had a wonderful gentleman sitting next to me. He was good at fixing my T.V. cables ( the airline engineers locate points at impossible to reach places) and was helpful with my overhead baggage; but my goodness, twelve and a half hours next to one person familiarizes you with their taste in wine and  movies and the number of times they need the loo.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

The genius of the Incas is to be seen to be believed.
Reading about it is like biting into a dry toast…and seeing it is like having your toast with butter and marmalade. 

It all comes alive as you see the terraced agriculture, the use of stones to build walls, storages and living areas and the thought behind the apertures.

IN A DOOR WAY

3 SISTERS AND I  AT MACHU PICCHU

The stark strength of the stones is offset with the rich green of the land and the blue of the Urubamba river.

URUBAMBA RIVER

STONE WEIGHT 90-120 TONNES

THE INCAS FORTRESS

The Incas acknowledged a force greater than themselves and built many temples to the Sun God.

The Spanish came, looking for Peruvian gold, conquered the country and built their churches on top of many of the Incan temples.

The Spanish Churches have massive wooden doors, beautiful tile work, silver and paintings. There is a rendition of The Last Supper  which is very different than what I have seen in Italy.. On the table there is a platter with a guinea pig which is a favourite Peruvian food.

17TH  CENTURY TILES

I had a beautiful moment exploring a church when I heard the sound of music coming from above me. On glancing up, there was a man in one of the balconies, longish hair, his back to me playing on the organ.

I had to move on. I was with a group. Had I indulged in the luxury of a private tour I could have spent the entire afternoon listening to him.

The visit to Peru was planned for Machu Picchu and the add ons were The Amazon River  Rain Forests and Lima..a beautiful city..I could live there.

High Lights:

H.B.  There are several ways of getting to Machu Picchu. You can walk ..4 days on the Inca Trail or take a train, Peru Rail has several options up to  Aguas Calientes..and then bus it to the top of the mountain and citadel of Machu Picchu.

I took the Hiram Bingham..paying for which caused a hole in my bank balance…the hole was completely forgotten when I arrived at Poroy to board it.

H.B. cannot just be referred to as  a luxury train. It is an experience which starts the moment you alight at the train station and are welcomed by musicians and dancers in traditional costumes.

The waiting area has sofas, and trays with flutes of champagne, fresh juice and canapés are being passed around..and this at 8.30am in the morning.

A red carpet leads you into the train and an attendant takes you onto a tour of the two dining coaches, a lounge, a bar, and an open deck with a 3 piece live orchestra that encourages you to sing with them..dance if you so feel like ..or just enjoy.

MUSICIANS AT PORAY  TRAIN STATION 

Dining room seats are pre assigned, tables covered with damask, gleaming cutlery, and there is a four course meal that is served to and fro from Machu Picchu

If you can afford it…this is the only way to travel…and if you cant I suggest you immediately get a piggy bank and ask for donations.

Belmond Palacio Nazerenas.  3 Nights. This was a private residence,then a convent for nuns and now a hotel with just suites.





The lobby, a small room with a bench like sofa , two chairs and a counter..plenty of character but gives no indication of the luxury that lies ahead. You pass through courtyards with fountains , rosemary bushes and an tea is laid out…

My room the size of half a football field  has an espresso machine, a decanter of Pisco Sour and a mini bar stocked with little snacks and soft drinks…all on the house.

The other half of the football field is a closet, a tub , a shower  area, and…

The flooring is heated and oxygen is being  pumped in to help you acclimatize to the bump up to 9000ft above sea level.

Lima..Larco Herrera Museum, and  Miguel, 

I’ve said this before…I loved Lima..the Pacific Ocean..  the vast sea front all along which there is plenty of  green,  playgrounds,and little seating areas. Its clean…there are people but no stifling crowds.

The Larco Museum..I mention especially. It is family owned, beautifully maintained with a really nice restaurant in a garden and a gift shop.
Its difficult to express  that while the museum shows a way of life approximately 5000 years ago yet  there is a freshness .... not the usual  mustiness that museums have. I found the jewelry collection quite contemporary..and very stunning.

 THE ENTRANCE OF THE MUSEUM 

Miguel: My guide in Lima. I was able to afford a personalized tour  ..and believe it makes a big difference seeing one on one.

You are with a human being.and not someone that rattles off  information to a group.
Miguel was in his 50s . His son was  a Television Star..and he himself had been to Chicago to hear The Rolling Stones.

At the museum he wanted to know if I wanted to do the Erotica room on my own!!
He was a Christian..but did not go to Church on Sundays. His job took him to at least two churches in a day  and that he felt was enough .

In the church ,pictured below there was a huge shortage of monks. Only 12 were left and this inspite of the fact that they could dress in jeans..casually... and the Archbishop was very hopeful that laws requiring celibacy were about to change.

THE CHURCH - WITH A VACANCY FOR PRIESTS

May 26-27-28 2014 - PERU

May 26-27-28   2014  - PERU

The Peruvians have some very interesting comments about their larger neighbour Brazil

- Brazil  has no heroes... They have never been involved in a war...Unless the field is  football ....Then there is no second to Pele, Carlos Torres, Ronaldinho , Ronaldo and at least ten others.

- Now that it has been confirmed that the mighty Amazon's source is in the Andes in Peru the Brazilians say :

 " So What ....we have the larger portion of it “.

   

and the Peruvians retort..

"Well we have the tree...be happy with your branch".

- My journey  on the mighty Amazon river began in the city of Iquitos in Peru. The route covered the Maranon, Yanallapa, Ucayali and Yarapa  rivers...all  tributaries that finally flowed into and became the Amazon.

The Ucayali which is the major tributary is muddy in color and  opaque giving it an air of mystery .

-It was a three night cruise... we were a total of 23 passengers divided into groups of five each with a naturalist and a crew member as the " In Charge"  .

- Our group was " The MACAWS"   beautiful black and red birds.

CHEERS - THE MACAWS

- Our  uniform : life jacket, long sleeve shirts , long trousers , lots of insect repellent cream.

-An oil skin to protect against the rain

To me the highlights of this journey were :

- Spotting the Morpho ....a large blue butterfly who refused to be photographed. But it is   firmly etched in my memory.

- Fishing in the Piranha  waters
catching my own and then with the help of the crew throwing it back into the water .

 ...A Brycon   

                                 




  





A Piranha    

-Trees and Foliage that we have only read about in our geography books and all pushing towards the sky and sunlight.

Reaching  for the sun

In the Rain Forest

The Beautiful Egreed

-And a Boa