Sunday, 15 June 2014

Lima, Cusco, The Urubamba Valley and Ollantaytambo

Any trip I plan, must have either some historical value or nature as the focal point.
I enjoy physical activity and like it all wrapped up in as much luxury as I can afford. Sometimes the “afford” gets stretched but I have never regretted it as the experience always overtakes the cost.

Peru gave me all that I look for ,and  I am glad that I did the trip now..at my current fitness level as it calls for both the ability to acclimatize and stamina.

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It’s a loo…oong flight. 8 hours to Amsterdam;  a 4 hour layover and then twelve and a half hours across  the Atlantic, over  the Andes and onto Lima on the Pacific.
I had a wonderful gentleman sitting next to me. He was good at fixing my T.V. cables ( the airline engineers locate points at impossible to reach places) and was helpful with my overhead baggage; but my goodness, twelve and a half hours next to one person familiarizes you with their taste in wine and  movies and the number of times they need the loo.

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The genius of the Incas is to be seen to be believed.
Reading about it is like biting into a dry toast…and seeing it is like having your toast with butter and marmalade. 
It all comes alive as you see the terraced agriculture, the use of stones to build walls, storages and living areas and the thought behind the apertures.
IN A DOOR WAY

3 SISTERS AND I  AT MACHU PICCHU


The stark strength of the stones is offset with the rich green of the land and the blue of the Urubamba river.
URUBAMBA RIVER
STONE WEIGHT 90-120 TONNES





THE INCAS FORTRESS















The Incas acknowledged a force greater than themselves and built many temples to the Sun God.










The Spanish came, looking for Peruvian gold, conquered the country and built their churches on top of many of the Incan temples.
The Spanish Churches have massive wooden doors, beautiful tile work, silver and paintings. There is a rendition of The Last Supper  which is very different than what I have seen in Italy.. On the table there is a platter with a guinea pig which is a favourite Peruvian food.




















17TH  CENTURY TILES


I had a beautiful moment exploring a church when I heard the sound of music coming from above me. On glancing up, there was a man in one of the balconies, longish hair, his back to me playing on the organ.
I had to move on. I was with a group. Had I indulged in the luxury of a private tour I could have spent the entire afternoon listening to him.






The visit to Peru was planned for Machu Picchu and the add ons were The Amazon River  Rain Forests and Lima..a beautiful city..I could live there.




High Lights:
H.B.  There are several ways of getting to Machu Picchu. You can walk ..4 days on the Inca Trail or take a train, Peru Rail has several options up to  Aguas Calientes..and then bus it to the top of the mountain and citadel of Machu Picchu.
I took the Hiram Bingham..paying for which caused a hole in my bank balance…the hole was completely forgotten when I arrived at Poroy to board it.
H.B. cannot just be referred to as  a luxury train. It is an experience which starts the moment you alight at the train station and are welcomed by musicians and dancers in traditional costumes.
The waiting area has sofas, and trays with flutes of champagne, fresh juice and canapés are being passed around..and this at 8.30am in the morning.
A red carpet leads you into the train and an attendant takes you onto a tour of the two dining coaches, a lounge, a bar, and an open deck with a 3 piece live orchestra that encourages you to sing with them..dance if you so feel like ..or just enjoy.

MUSICIANS AT PORAY  TRAIN STATION 



Dining room seats are pre assigned, tables covered with damask, gleaming cutlery, and there is a four course meal that is served to and fro from Machu Picchu
If you can afford it…this is the only way to travel…and if you cant I suggest you immediately get a piggy bank and ask for donations.




Belmond Palacio Nazerenas.  3 Nights. This was a private residence,then a convent for nuns and now a hotel with just suites.





The lobby, a small room with a bench like sofa , two chairs and a counter..plenty of character but gives no indication of the luxury that lies ahead. You pass through courtyards with fountains , rosemary bushes and an tea is laid out…







My room the size of half a football field  has an espresso machine, a decanter of Pisco Sour and a mini bar stocked with little snacks and soft drinks…all on the house.
The other half of the football field is a closet, a tub , a shower  area, and…
The flooring is heated and oxygen is being  pumped in to help you acclimatize to the bump up to 9000ft above sea level.



Lima..Larco Herrera Museum, and  Miguel, 

I’ve said this before…I loved Lima..the Pacific Ocean..  the vast sea front all along which there is plenty of  green,  playgrounds,and little seating areas. Its clean…there are people but no stifling crowds.

The Larco Museum..I mention especially. It is family owned, beautifully maintained with a really nice restaurant in a garden and a gift shop.
Its difficult to express  that while the museum shows a way of life approximately 5000 years ago yet  there is a freshness .... not the usual  mustiness that museums have. I found the jewelry collection quite contemporary..and very stunning.
 THE ENTRANCE OF THE MUSEUM 
Miguel: My guide in Lima. I was able to afford a personalized tour  ..and believe it makes a big difference seeing one on one.
You are with a human being.and not someone that rattles off  information to a group.
Miguel was in his 50s . His son was  a Television Star..and he himself had been to Chicago to hear The Rolling Stones.
At the museum he wanted to know if I wanted to do the Erotica room on my own!!
He was a Christian..but did not go to Church on Sundays. His job took him to at least two churches in a day  and that he felt was enough .

In the church ,pictured below there was a huge shortage of monks. Only 12 were left and this inspite of the fact that they could dress in jeans..casually... and the Archbishop was very hopeful that laws requiring celibacy were about to change.

THE CHURCH - WITH A VACANCY FOR PRIESTS





Saturday, 7 June 2014

May 26-27-28 2014 - PERU

May 26-27-28   2014  - PERU

The Peruvians have some very interesting comments about their larger neighbour Brazil

- Brazil  has no heroes... They have never been involved in a war...Unless the field is  football ....Then there is no second to Pele, Carlos Torres, Ronaldinho , Ronaldo and at least ten others.

- Now that it has been confirmed that the mighty Amazon's source is in the Andes in Peru the Brazilians say :
 " So What ....we have the larger portion of it “.
   
and the Peruvians retort..

"Well we have the tree...be happy with your branch".

- My journey  on the mighty Amazon river began in the city of Iquitos in Peru. The route covered the Maranon, Yanallapa, Ucayali and Yarapa  rivers...all  tributaries that finally flowed into and became the Amazon.

The Ucayali which is the major tributary is muddy in color and  opaque giving it an air of mystery .

-It was a three night cruise... we were a total of 23 passengers divided into groups of five each with a naturalist and a crew member as the " In Charge"  .


- Our group was " The MACAWS"   beautiful black and red birds.



CHEERS - THE MACAWS


- Our  uniform : life jacket, long sleeve shirts , long trousers , lots of insect repellent cream.

-An oil skin to protect against the rain



To me the highlights of this journey were :

- Spotting the Morpho ....a large blue butterfly who refused to be photographed. But it is   firmly etched in my memory.

Fishing in the Piranha  waters
catching my own and then with the help of the crew throwing it back into the water .

 ...A Brycon   


                                 




  





A Piranha    


-Trees and Foliage that we have only read about in our geography books and all pushing towards the sky and sunlight.



Reaching  for the sun


In the Rain Forest


The Beautiful Egreed




-And a Boa











Saturday, 17 May 2014

Coorg May 2014

Coorg was a bonus that I gave myself.

It happened when NIFT Kannur asked me to conduct a 2 day workshop for their students on the World of  Employment.

NIFT  Kannur

Coorg popped up as an " Add On" from my check list of places to visit and I started researching with  ..

- How to  ...reach

- Where to... stay

- What to ....take and ...see

- And a variety of topics that connected only because they all fell under "Coorg."

The option of getting to Coorg from Mysore ( A two hour drive) was not given to me.

NIFT  Kannur was paying for the travel and they chose the routing. I flew to Mangalore via Mumbai ( 4 hours) and then drove to Coorg another 4 + hours

The road was good. Traffic was sparse and every km was a visual treat. We went past rubber , coconut , betel nut. jack  fruit trees  and pepper bushes.

JACK FRUIT READY FOR PLUCKING

 I was the Boss and could dictate the speed. " Crawl"  or " Step on it"

The road stared to wind .The air felt cooler and coffee plantations became predominant. We climbed to 4500 feet.

I was to spend just 2 days in Coorg and I chose Silver Brooke Estate over the heavily advertised 5 star  resorts.

VERANDAH SILVER BROOKE ESTATE


It was recommended by a friend who described it as "affordable luxury" . Silver Brooke is small . There are just 5 rooms but it is set in the most amazing exotic  surroundings which I think is part of the luxury element.

There were croton trees ,  yellow hibiscus plants and two tiny ponds each with a lotus flower in bloom.

KAMAL KAMAL  and KAMAL ( ALL LOTUS)
CROTON TREE

For my two days I chose not to rush around doing all the  regular tourist spots of  Abbey Falls , Elephant Camp, and such like.

I took long walks along a gurgling brook ..
SPARKLING  , GURGLING


. had my blood sucked by leeches and just sat amongst  Exotic Nature  with a book and thought to myself ... This is a good Life !